Q: How the sway bars stabilizer bar antiroll bars powder coated?A: Please look at our updated powder coating line, Taizhou Yongzheng provide you sway bars stabilizer bar with durable finish.
Q: How to make sure the sway bars are in correct shape and dimension?A: Each sway bar has a specific fixture, we verify and check the sway bar in such fixture, making sure they are in correct shape and size, 100% inspection is conducted in the factory.
Track bars,correctly called Panhard bars, control side-to-side movement, which is really horizontal, not vertical. Sway bars, correctly called Anti-Sway bars, reduce lean or sway, or roll. Track bars control the yaw (vertical axis) and sway bars control the roll (longitudinal axis).
A short explanation of why you need an aftermarket sway bar is that it helps improve your vehicle’s handing and gives you, the driver, more control of the car. For example, if you're taking a right hand turn at high speed, the car begins to lean to the left and put more load on the left side tires, whereas the tires on the right hand side of the car start to lose contact with the road surface. Because of this, they aren't able to work effectively and efficiently in getting the car to rotate through the turn.
Following the law of inertia, an object in motion wants to stay in motion unless acted upon by an outside force. In this case, the outside force to your vehicle is a change direction. As the mass of your vehicle corners, its inertia is causing the car to "roll" to the outside of the turn. This rolling affect causes the car to become unbalanced and "unplanted." The purpose of the sway bar is reduce this action and keep the body of your vehicle level, while maintaining traction and control as the weight is shifted from side to side. The transfer of loads through the sway bar can improve your vehicle’s handling?
With only a few exceptions all sway bar kits come with bushings. Kits that do not have bushings are designed to mount without them.
Many customers fall into the ‘bigger is better’ trap and shop only for the largest sway bar they can find. Sometimes this works, but many times they are compromising their vehicle’s performance. If other modifications have been made – increased spring rate, lowered height, change in roll center, etc. – the best sway bar may be smaller. The vehicle is a combination of its parts and it doesn’t care how massive and cool the bar may look, it only cares how the sway bar interacts with the rest of its components. This is why our produces adjustable sway bars for many applications. The adjustable sway bar allows you to tune the vehicle to your driving style and suspension components. We also manufacture more than one diameter for popular applications to allow the customer to match the right sway bar to the vehicle.
A “softer” setup in the front would encourage a good turning ability. The fact that the weight transfer puts a good deal of pressure on the outside tire and rotates around the corner. Meanwhile a “stiffer” setup in the rear will allow more minute losses of traction and a responsive rear end. This also helps rotation around a corner.
We are a professional sway bar supplier of aftermarket and performance in China, with 15 years experience in this line. As a modern enterprise, it has a complete system of R&D, production, sales, service and also has a strong technical and management team. Give us a try and turn your curiosity into an obsession.
There's this great book called Fundamentals of Vehicle Dynamics by Thomas Gillespie. Chapter 6 of that book deals with cornering. The term he uses to describe cornering of a vehicle is steady state cornering. In the book, the equation for steering angle is given as follows,Steer Angle = 57.3 L/R + K*(lateral acceleration) where: L = wheelbase R = radius of curvature of curve K = understeer gradient (+ve if the car has understeer, -ve if oversteer, 0 if neutral). An anti roll-bar is a part of automotive suspension that is used to reduce vehicle roll by stiffening up the suspension. So basically, it transfers the lateral load generated due to cornering. Now, understeer gradient is the ratio of load on axle to cornering stiffness, i.e., W/C. When both ratios for front and rear axle are equal, it is termed as neutral steering (K=0). When the ratio of front is greater than the rear, it is termed as understeering (K0). When the ratio of front is less than that of rear, it is termed as oversteering (K). Since, lateral force (a) = W (V^2)/(C g R)where, g = acceleration due to gravity andV= forward velocity,we can predict whether the vehicle is going to understeer or oversteer by calculation and equating W/C ratios for front and rear and make necessary adjustment to the steering angle to compensate for the same.
It depends on your kinematic set up and your computed values like for example one of it could be the roll stiffness'.I wouldn't spoon-feed you on this as you've to understand it on your own before following someone else's advice whether to use it or not and where. This would eventually help you in many ways. You'll be in a position to firmly assert your decision in the Design Report, which I feel is the most important part of the competition and you would be totally accountable for the dynamics of your car. It would give huge returns in the testing phase while playing with stiffness and other parameters.I would urge you to read fsae forums and other books like tune to win- Caroll Smith, Race Car Vehicle Dynamics (RCVD)- Milliken and Milliken, technical papers published by Optimum G (Claude Roulle's company). After reading all these things, infact from RCVD itself you would be in a state to conclude where to use in your car (Obviously you will have to brainstorm and take an informed decision considering your driver's skill, engine power, aero/noaero, etc).There are many cases on FSAE forums.And lastly, I would request all of us to not post a cliche question on fsae forums without a proper protocol (name, university name, team name, and proper description of your situation) which you'd find in the answers and questions there. It just spoils the name of Indians and the one starting the thread with the question is abused very badly.You'd think why this is important?Because if you go to an international competition you come to know the situation and how they misconstrue us and we would obviously not want our nation and fellow students to let us down at an international level!
Both the Anti Roll Bar and Torsional Bar / Torsion beam work on the same principle - torsion or twisting of a beam to provide an elastic mechanical connection between opposite sides of a suspension.I've differentiated between Anti Roll Bars and Torsion Beam Axles in the following sectionsAnti-Roll Bar ( henceforth referred to as ARB )As the name suggests, an ARB prevents excessive sideways tilting movement (Roll) of the vehicle while taking turns. The anti roll bar is usually a thin and shaped bar that connects two sides of an independent suspension system ( mostly used in the front wheels ) so that when one suspension moves up or down, the movement is PARTIALLY transferred to the other wheel too and thus helps maintain a mechanical connection with flexibility ( due to torsion ).An ARB is also referred to as a Torsion bar sometimes. The ARB is attached by means ofpin joints or ball joints to the suspension linkages on either side and by means of bracket mounted pin-joints to the under body of the vehicle.These linkages are a key difference between Anti Roll Bars and Torsion Beams. Torsion Beams are typically welded to the trailing arms of rear axlesCouple Torsion Beam Axle / Twist Beam Axle (henceforth referred to as CTBA )A CTBA is a much thicker formed metal beam that is welded to a set of trailing arms. The torsion beam acts as a flexible mechanical link ( similar to the anti roll bar ) with a high torsional stiffness compared to the anti-roll barSince the CTBA is welded at both ends , it allows for a significantly lesser range of relative movement between the two trailing arms. CTBAs are used in rear suspension in tandem with coil spring and damper systems in small cars and other entry level sedans.
The front sway bar is a little more difficult than the rear sway bar install.But it isn’t very hard at all. The only reason it takes longer is because you have to remove a couple of trays, so it still won’t be a problem. If you are performing this upgrade yourself and you have the proper tools then this job shouldn’t take more than 1-1/2 hours.